Monthly Archives: February 2017

Here a guide to the locations of the cult classic

The Roadhouse

The heart of Twin Peaks country is the Snoqualmie Valley, in the hills east of Seattle. It’s at an easy distance for a day trip from the big city. Drop in first to Fall City, a town that is home to the building which starred as Bang Bang Bar, generally referred to as The Roadhouse. This was Twin Peaks’ adult entertainment venue, filled with couples and bikers listening to live music and downing a beer or two.

One of the most memorable scenes here featured the mystical Giant appearing in a vision to FBI Agent Dale Cooper, warning him of a murder with the line ‘It is happening again.’ Nowadays the century-old building houses the Fall City Roadhouse (fcroadhouse.com), offering food and accommodation.

Out back is another location: the cabin used to depict The Bookhouse, headquarters of the secret society known as The Bookhouse Boys.

Location: 4200 Preston-Fall City Rd SE, Fall City

White Tail Falls

Heading farther south-east to the town of Snoqualmie, the next major location is this impressive waterfall, falling majestically across our screens as the opening credits played to the haunting theme of composer Angelo Badalamenti.

In reality known as the Snoqualmie Falls (snoqualmiefalls.com), it’s a significant site to the Native American Snoqualmie people, who say the mist from the falls connects the heaven and earth. Since 1899 it’s also been the site of a hydroelectric power plant, which you can learn more about at the nearby Snoqualmie Falls Hydroelectric Museum.

Its great beauty makes the location a popular tourist attraction, and there’s an observation platform from which to catch that Twin Peaks selfie featuring you, the falls and our next location: The Great Northern.

Location: 6501 Railroad Ave SE, Snoqualmie

The Great Northern

Sitting proudly above the waterfall, this grand hotel with timber interiors bearing Native American totems was the domain of scheming businessman Benjamin Horne and his daughter Audrey. It’s also where Agent Cooper was shot by an unknown assailant in the cliffhanger ending to the first season.

The first hotel built here was the 1916 Snoqualmie Falls Lodge, a small inn where travelers rested on their journey through the mountains. In 1988 it was remodeled and expanded to become the upmarket Salish Lodge. With its spa treatments and scenic views, it’s a good base from which to explore the Twin Peaks universe. At the end of the day the hotel bar will serve you a Dale Cooper cocktail in memory of the Twin Peaks agent, featuring gin, cider, and the establishment’s in-house honey.

Location: 6501 Railroad Avenue SE, Snoqualmie

Ronette’s Bridge

Across the Snoqualmie River from the Salish Lodge, Railroad Avenue takes you past the Northwest Railway Museum and the giant Snoqualmie Centennial Log which appeared in the credits of Twin Peaks’ pilot episode. A left turn on Meadowbrook Way will lead you back to the river and the most chilling of filming locations: Ronette’s Bridge.

This railroad bridge was the location where a dazed and injured Ronette Pulaski was found, having escaped the fate of the murdered Laura Palmer. In the present day the rails have been removed and the bridge is now part of the Snoqualmie Valley Trail, used by walkers and cyclists. Despite this healthy modern purpose, the dark girders of the structure still seem to loom ominously over the waters below.

Location: 40412 SE Reinig Rd, Snoqualmie

Sheriff’s Station and Packard Sawmill

North of Ronette’s Bridge, 396th Drive leads through trees to the location which stood in as the sheriff’s station, occupied by Sheriff Harry S Truman and his loyal deputies. It’s instantly recognizable, though it’s now occupied by the DirtFish rally driving school (dirtfish.com).

From the parking lot, there’s a clear view of another Twin Peaks landmark, the Packard Sawmill. This facility was portrayed as the key asset of the Packard and Martell families. Opened in 1917 as the Weyerhaeuser Mill, the facility closed in 2003 and now only a single smokestack is left to bear witness to its history and television fame.

Location: 7001 396th Drive SE, Snoqualmie.

Double R Diner

Back over the river on Railroad Avenue, head southeast to the small town of North Bend. Here you’ll find the most fondly remembered Twin Peaks location, the Double R Diner. This old-school café, presided over by owner Norma Jennings in her retro blue uniform, was the quintessential small town eatery in the series. It was also a favorite haunt of Agent Cooper, who famously praised its cherry pie and ‘damn fine cup of coffee.’

Actually known as Twede’s Café, the family-owned diner that opened in 1941 has been through various ups and downs since its 1990s starring role (including a fire). With the filming of the new Twin Peaks season, it was transformed into its old appearance. If you visit now, you can still drink coffee, eat pie, and eavesdrop on small-town secrets.

Location: 137 W North Bend Way, North Bend.

‘Welcome to Twin Peaks’ sign

For a bonus location, steer your vehicle to 41483 SE Reinig Rd, Snoqualmie, then carefully pull over. You’re gazing at the view once graced by the ‘Welcome to Twin Peaks’ sign in the opening credits of every episode. The sign is no longer there, but the scenery hasn’t much changed. Sit back, take in the view of the mountains, and try to interpret the mysteries whistling through the mighty trees that Agent Cooper so admired.

Info Shipwrecks, tin mines and smugglers’ coves In Cornwall

There are many things for which Cornwall is famous: wind-blown cliff-tops, white sandy bays, crumbling tin mines, the Cornish pasty. But a new spotlight is shining on this ancient Celtic kingdom thanks to the smash-hit BBC series Poldark, which is set and filmed here, and has transmitted the county’s charms to a global audience.

Based on Cornish author Winston Graham’s historical novels, written between 1945 and 2002, the story traces the fortunes of the Poldark dynasty during Cornwall’s 18th and 19th century mining boom (tin and copper, as well as tungsten, arsenic and silver, were all extracted) with a particular focus on the brooding, troubled Ross Poldark.

First adapted for television in the 1970s, Poldark’s recent big-budget makeover has proved a massive hit thanks to its rollicking plots, cracking cinematography and the smouldering good looks of its cast, particularly Aiden Turner, who plays Ross and is now notorious thanks to his shirtless scythe-wielding in season one.

But the cast are mere understudies to the series’ real star – the spectacular Cornish scenery that’s on display in almost every frame. With the series now in its third season, here’s a run-down of some of its most memorable locations, from golden bays to smugglers’ coves and wild headlands to windswept moor.

Charlestown

This small granite port a couple of miles from St Austell has provided a ready-built backdrop for several harbour scenes. Originally built to serve Cornwall’s china clay industry, which was based around St Austell and Fowey, the port has now found a new lease of life as a filming location. It’s been used in countless films and costume dramas, including Poldark – admittedly with a bit of help from set-dressers and CGI to add period detail. While you’re here, drop into the Shipwreck and Heritage Centre (shipwreckcharlestown.com), which traces the harbour’s maritime history and also displays lots of flotsam and jetsam collected from nearby shipwrecks.

Porthcurno

You don’t need to be a cinematographer to spot the photogenic qualities of Porthcurno, a couple of miles south of Land’s End. A deep, sloping wedge of white sand framed by granite cliffs and the blue Atlantic, the beach is one of the most beautiful in Cornwall. It provided the location for a memorable Demelza Carne dream sequence in season one. It also happens to be home to Cornwall’s most stunning theatre, the Minack – an Ancient Greek-inspired amphitheatre carved into the clifftops by a redoubtable theatre enthusiast called Rowena Cade. It’s still regularly used for summer performances.

St Agnes

Nowadays it’s mainly frequented by surfers and second-homers, but a hundred years ago the coastal village of St Agnes was one of the epicentres of Cornish mining, and the countryside is littered with abandoned stacks and rocky mining valleys cloaked with heather and gorse.

Various sites around the village and nearby St Agnes Head have been used to represent the Nampara Valley, a key part of the Poldark family’s estate – notably the iconic cliff-top mine at Wheal Coates above Chapel Porth, now owned by the National Trust. The Chapel Porth Café is a lovely spot for lunch, too.

Porthgwarra

This tiny, cliff-backed cove looks so picture-perfect you’d be forgiven for thinking it was a studio set. It was used for a risqué scene in which Ross goes for an impromptu dip while his future wife Demelza spies on him from the cliff-tops. You can swim here too, but be careful of swells and currents – and afterwards, don’t miss warming up with a mug of hot chocolate at the cute Porthgwarra Cove Cafe, where cast and crew refueled during filming.

Botallack to Levant

Another area rich with mining heritage and littered with photogenic mining ruins – including the cliffside, sea-sprayed workings of Botallack and the 19th-century Levant Beam Engine, believed to be the only one of its kind still working in the world. Unsurprisingly, it’s cropped up regularly in the series, largely since Levant Mine doubles as Poldark’s fictional Tressiders Rolling Mill. From Levant, you can hike along the coast path to Botallack and the ruined mine at Wheal Crowns, or if you prefer to dig deeper, you can also take an underground tour of an actual tin mine – it only closed in 1990 – nearby at Geevor. For lunch, drop in to the excellent Gurnard’s Head (gurnardshead.co.uk) near Zennor for some hearty grub and local ale.

Predannack Wollas

The rugged cliffs, wheeling gulls and booming surf of the Lizard peninsula are a favourite for hikers, bird-watchers and photographers, and they’ve barely changed since the era in which Poldark is set.

They’re also a natural fit for big-sky scenes, and Ross Poldark is often glimpsed riding along the clifftops around Predannack Wollas during seasons one and two. The nearby National Trust-owned Kynance Cove was used as a double for Nampara Cove, and it’s a glorious spot for a picnic lunch – or you can drop by the eco-friendly Kynance Cove Cafe for a crab sandwich and some homemade cake.

Church Cove

Also on the Lizard, near the village of Gunwalloe, this quiet beach is home to a medieval church dedicated to St Winwalloe. Once a hideout used by smugglers and free-traders, the beach’s past was brought back to life when it was used for a memorable sequence in season one, in which a shipwreck is plundered by locals for booty. At the nearby beach of Dollar Cove, legend has it that there’s treasure to be found from a shipwrecked Spanish galleon – so definitely a place to bring along your metal detector.

Bodmin Moor

Stark and wild, and spotted with granite rock-stacks known as tors, Cornwall’s ‘roof’ is a landscape that radiates natural drama – something the makers of Poldark exploited by using Bodmin Moor as the location for Ross’s lonely cottage at Nampara, not to mention numerous scenes of the lovelorn hero galloping against suitably moody skies. Equestrian activities notwithstanding, the main reason to visit is the chance to hike to the top of Cornwall’s highest hill, Brown Willy.

Perranporth

A location of a different kind: this popular beachfront town on the north coast was Poldark author Winston Graham’s home for more than four decades, and he wrote most of the novels here. A memorial seat on the cliffs above Perranporth Beach commemorates the writer’s literary achievements – it’s on the coast path near Droskyn Point, but it’s a bit tricky to find, so you may have to ask a local or consult a map. It’s also a fitting spot to conclude your Poldark tour: staring down over golden sands framed by craggy cliffs and white-horse surf, it’s not hard to see where Winston Graham found his inspiration.

Best 10 idyllic day trips from Dubrovnik

Two other countries, Bosnia & Hercegovina and Montenegro, sit within easy reach, as do lushly green islands, captivating wine lands and charming river deltas.

Seafood, beaches and sunsets in Cavtat

An easy outing east of the city, Cavtat offers an air of tranquillity lost years ago in Dubrovnik. Idyllic seaside promenades line its wooded peninsulas, leading up to a number of pristine beaches. Hike up to the top of Rat peninsula for splendid vistas and a visit to the beautiful and moving Račić family Mausoleum. Next stroll down to Ključice beach for a swim and some tasty seafood under the shade of pines at Rokotin restaurant (facebook.com/Restaurant-RokotinCavtat). Witness a spectacular sunset before making your way back along Rat promenade to the bus station.

Getting there: The 15km to Cavtat can be covered by Libertas bus 10 or a more refreshing boat transfer from the old town harbour.

Peace and heritage on the isle of Lokrum

Sprawled just a few hundred metres offshore from Dubrovnik’s bustling old town, the leafy island of Lokrum is the perfect place to immerse yourself in pine forests, olive orchards and botanical gardens. Swim in the clear, sparkling waters of the sea or take a dip in a huge rock pool-lagoon known as Dead Sea. The island is also dotted with heritage sites, including a Napoleonic fort and the Benedictine Monastery ruins, where Game of Thrones fans can pose on a replica of the Iron Throne. Take a picnic (but beware of the domesticated peacocks who may take an interest in your sandwiches) or savour a peacock-free meal at the lovely Lacroma restaurant (lacroma.restaurant).

Getting there: Boats run from the old town harbour on a regular schedule (15 minute ride). Inquire about the last departure from the island, as overnight stays are prohibited.

Explore the idyllic Elafiti archipelago

Often visited together on a ‘three islands’ cruise, Koločep, Lopud and Šipan are the main drawcards of the Elafiti archipelago northwest of Dubrovnik. Each island is alluring in its own right: Koločep nurtures a Robinson Crusoe feel and Šipan is packed with historic heritage, especially evident in the Renaissance-era Skočibuha castle in Suđurađ, but if you must choose just one, opt for Lopud. Let its main promenade guide you past abandoned monasteries and rustic stone houses, and over wild and remote cliffs to sandy Šunj. Electric cars line up by the beach to take you back to the main settlement, where a tasty lunch comes complete with a sea view at La Villa (lavilla.com.hr) or Obala (obalalopud.com).

Getting there: Jadrolinija boats run four times a day from Gruž harbour and take 30 minutes to Koločep, 55 minutes to Lopud and 1 hour 15minutes to Suđurađ on Šipan.

Get active in Mljet island’s divinely green national park

Most day-trippers to Mljet island will spend their time in the national park on its western tip, hiking, cycling, diving, kayaking or simply taking in the meditative beauty of its two saltwater lakes. Great Lake comes adorned with the tiny islet of St Mary and its 12th century monastery, dotting the ‘i’ in idyllic. If you do happen to have extra time on your hands or a car, venture across the island to sunbathe in the sandy Saplunara or relish the familial atmosphere at Konoba Maestral in Okuklje.

Getting there: Car ferries run 5 times a day to Sobra on Mljet from Prapratno, 60km northwest of Dubrovnik on the Pelješac Peninsula. Alternatively, take the 1 hour 40 minute G&V boat ride from Gruž in western Dubrovnik to Polače on Mljet, where complimentary vans await to take you to the heart of the national park.

Wander the streets of Korčula’s enchanting old town

Like a Venetian Dubrovnik, Korčula Town’s compact walled citadel hogs the spotlight on Croatia’s sixth largest island, with treasures like the Cathedral of St Mark and Cukarin pastry shop strewn between its watchtowers, lion statues and curvy streets. Make sure to leave room for brudetto (fish stew) at Adio Mare and a toast with a glass of local Grk or Pošip white wine.

Getting there: Buses run year-round from Dubrovnik main bus station to Korčula Town, but in July and August, take advantage of G&V boats, cutting travel time from 3.5 to 2.5 hours.

Pair fresh oysters with local wine in earthy Ston

The gatekeeper of Pelješac peninsula’s wine empire, Ston sits an hour’s drive west of Dubrovnik. Try a taste of fleur de sel from its historic salt pans and work up an appetite walking part of its walls. Then delve into the succulent oysters and mussels fresh from the neighbouring Bay of Mali Ston at Bakus, all washed down with local wine. To see where the local tipple comes from, venture 10km further to Miloš winery in Ponikve.

Getting there: Libertas bus 15 runs a few times each day, directly to Ston. Oenophiles should consider a wine tasting tour of the peninsula, such as Insider Holidays’ tour (insiderholidays.eu), run by local sommeliers.

Stray off the beaten path into the marshlands of Vid

Often overlooked, the tiny village of Vid on the River Neretva showcases a completely different side to the region. Start with 360-degree panoramas of the valley from the top of the hill, then stroll down to the remarkable in situ museum of Narona Roman temple (a-m-narona.hr). Across the street at Đuđa and Mate restaurant (djudjaimate.hr), jump aboard a shallow traditional boat, known as a ladja, for a photo safari through the peaceful and picturesque local marshlands. Upon return, round off your day with a tasting of ultra-local specialities like frogs and eel.

Getting there: From Dubrovnik main bus station, take any intercity bus which stops in Metković (1 hour 40 minutes). Grab a cab for the 3 kilometres to Vid, or book a pick-up in advance with Đuđa and Mate.

Nature meets tradition in the Konavle valley

You really need a car to get the most out of the fertile Konavle valley, but for a dust-sprinkled, adrenaline-powered taster, book a quad-bike safari with Kojan Koral (kojankoral.com). In addition to nature, these villages adjacent to the Montenegrin border jealously preserve their traditions, so on Sunday morning, venture out to Čilipi village for folklore dances and a craft market. To make a day out of it, continue to Koraćeva Kuća in Gruda for a traditional lunch.

Getting there: Buses 11, 25 and 27 run from Dubrovnik to Konavle, but these lines are scarce on Sundays, when you’re better off taking bus 10 to Cavtat and exploring the valley in a taxi. Kojan Koral organise pickups for their guests.

Spectacular scenery and atmospheric streets of Kotor

Across the border in Montenegro, sky-high mountains plummet straight into the sea, interrupted only by the quaint villages that speckle the jagged shorelines of the Bay of Kotor. Once an outpost of the Venetian Republic, Kotor is slightly rough around the edges, but makes up for that with its spectacular location. The strenuous climb up to the town walls is rewarded with breathtaking vistas from San Giovanni castle. Return to explore the curvy alleyways of the medieval town, visit St Tryphon’s Cathedral and the Square of Arms, and then pop into the open market in front of the Sea Gate, before wrapping it all up with a fancy but well-worth-it lunch at Galion restaurant.

Getting there: Several bus lines run between Dubrovnik and Kotor every day (approximately 2 hours 30 minutes), but inquire about the Libertas departure, as it goes straight to Kotor. If you’re driving to Kotor, take the ferry at Kamenari to arrive faster.

Admire Mostar’s picturesque Stari Most bridge

Famed for its majestic Ottoman bridge spanning the Neretva river, Mostar is one of the brightest treasures of neighbouring Bosnia & Hercegovina and within day-tripping distance of Dubrovnik. A Bosnian coffee will fuel your wanderings between the Franciscan Monastery, Kajatz House and the Old Bazaar, before you succumb to ćevapčići and dolmas (grilled minced-meat and stuffed vegetables) at Šadrvan restaurant.

Getting there: Instead of spending three and a half hours on a Sarajevo-bound bus, consider a tour with a company such as Dubrovnik Day Tours, which will allow you to squeeze the nearby fortress-village of Počitelj into your visit.

Here amazing cities for street art

Adorning urban spaces across the globe, this form of art is often deeply interwoven with the culture and history of a place and offers an eye-opening way to explore a destination. Here are eight amazing cities, straight from the pages of our new Street Art book, where you can see some of the best of these metropolitan masterpieces.

Berlin, Germany

Berlin is a rich hub of street art. Post-reunification, an abundance of large, empty buildings, a relatively cheap cost of living and a thriving counterculture have combined to bring an influx of artists and musicians to the city. Berlin was prominent during the early street art boom, and has become an essential pilgrimage site for visiting artists – it’s now known ironically as ‘the most bombed city in the world’. This time, though, the bombing is with spray paint, paste-ups and stickers, as well as alternative mediums like Lego (as seen in Jan Vormann’s colourful creations) and even yarn.

During the Cold War, the Berlin Wall was a symbolic target for politically motivated art, though only the west side was covered in graffiti – it was impossible for residents on the east side to get close enough. A section of the original wall, replete with contemporary graffiti, can still be seen on Mühlenstrasse.

New York, USA

As the birthplace of modern graffiti, it’s no surprise that New York and its artists played a starring role in the global growth of street art. Despite the increasingly frequent appearance of commissioned murals, New York’s scene retains a rawness. Each area has a distinct vibe, despite sometimes being separated by only a few blocks.

Visitors should gravitate to Williamsburg and Bushwick in Brooklyn – home to many of the city’s best-known artists – as well as the Lower East Side, SoHo, NoLita and Harlem. Away from the streets, the new One World Trade Center lobby houses a 27m mural from Brooklyn-based artist José Parlá, who has successfully blurred the line between street and gallery.

São Paulo, Brazil

Prior to experiencing the São Paulo street art scene for the first time, it’s worth educating yourself about the history behind the visual onslaught of tagging that seemingly adorns every surface in this sprawling urban metropolis. Pichação (‘writing in tar’) began as political graffiti during the Brazilian dictatorship, with its distinct calligraphic font inspired by the heavy metal album covers that dominated the São Paulo airwaves during the 1980s. Today, however, the ‘Pichadores’ are mostly interested in extreme tagging, with success measured in volume and height – the latter gained through use of modified fire extinguishers, roller extensions and life-or-death free climbing.

London, UK

From the late ’90s to mid 2000s, London was pivotal in the explosive growth of the street art scene, centred on the back streets, alternative galleries and underground drinking dens of the post-industrial East End. This trend peaked around 2008, when the Tate Modern staged a groundbreaking street art exhibition on the banks of the Thames and Banksy pioneered his ‘Cans Festival’ in the Leake Street tunnel – still a graffiti hotspot today.

The scene remains fairly focused on the East End – particularly the now ultra-trendy Shoreditch, and neighbouring Brick Lane and Hackney areas, where cobbled roads and streets of painted and pasted walls exist side-by-side with members’ clubs, Michelin-starred restaurants and high-end boutiques.

Melbourne, Australia

Melbourne is arguably Australia’s cultural (and countercultural!) capital, and is regularly voted one of the world’s most liveable cities. One of the reasons for its distinction can be traced to its streets. Thanks to the vision of its founders, the city centre has a uniquely navigable combination of wide, sweeping avenues and characterful, bluestone-cobbled lanes, making it something of a joy to explore. It’s a safe, clean, vibrant metropolis brimming with residents who love to meet, eat, drink and create.

Although graffiti is still technically illegal in the city, the public and private response to street art is generally positive – when Banksy first painted here, the council even tried (unsuccessfully) to preserve his work behind perspex panels. Today, Melburnians tend to embrace the ephemeral nature of public art, although work has been undertaken to restore a rare Keith Haring mural in the city.

Lisbon, Portugal

The first half of the 20th century saw Portugal stifled by a right-wing dictatorship, but the 1974 revolution resulted in an upsurge in politically motivated public art. By the time this trend had abated in the early ’90s, the arrival of traditional graffiti artists had taken up their forebears’ mantle. In recent years, Lisbon city council has actively supported street artists, and the advent of organised efforts such as ‘Underdogs’ and the CRONO Project – as well as the emergence of homegrown artists like Vhils – has attracted a high-profile roster of international names to the city. Today, Lisbon is one of the best locations in the world to experience street art in all its forms.

Many of the city’s street art gems can be found in and around the Bairro Alto area, with key hotspots including a series of legal walls along the Calçada da Glória, as well as along the river to the south.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

The fourth most populous city in the Americas, Buenos Aires shares a very active contemporary street art scene with its table-topping cousins. The European-influenced architecture of the city provides a great backdrop for street art, reminiscent of cities such as Valencia, Barcelona and Lisbon. Unlike in those cities, however, there is no need to obtain permission from local authorities to create new murals in Buenos Aires – you simply need permission from the property owner. This legal and logistical freedom has led to an active and innovative street art scene, built on the city’s historical legacy of stencil-based political protest art.

Street art flourishes throughout the city, but areas particularly worthy of attention include Coghlan and Villa Urquiza. Here, a now-abandoned plan for a new motorway led to the demolition of many buildings and the creation of scores of giant murals, including one by famed local artist Martin Ron.

Los Angeles, USA

Famed for its calligraphic ‘cholo’ graffiti style, which evolved from Latino gang graffiti, the Los Angeles street art scene developed in a noticeably different way to other places in North America, helped by the fact that artists could sometimes take days to paint one piece thanks to the gigantic spread of the city.

LA has a typically laid-back attitude to the crossover between traditional graffiti and street art, with many artists blurring the boundaries. Most notably, Retna – a member of the renowned MSK crew along with the likes of Saber, Revok and Risk – is now just as likely to be found on the cover of a Justin Bieber album or Louis Vuitton storefront as on the streets. His unique script, developed from a combination of gothic, Egyptian, Hebrew and Arabic calligraphy, can be seen in several high-profile locations across the city.